Ultimate Travel Guide: Florence with a Toddler

Our fearless girl looking down from the Brunelleschi Dome

Table of Contents

Stroller Rental- Our favorite rental company + why you NEED this service!

Food- The best pizza we've ever eaten

Welcome to Florence: a gorgeous Italian city filled with intriguing history, delicious food, and breathtaking art. On our tour around Italy with our one year old, Florence was our favorite stop!

We totally fell in love with the incredible churches, the rich culture, and our amazing accommodation- read on for all the details on how to make your trip to Florence with your toddler perfection!

HOW TO GET TO FLORENCE

Our "lap-baby" passed out from the pre-train-boarding hustle!

If Florence will be your first stop on your Italian journey or only want to visit Florence, many airlines offer flights there. If you're starting in Venice or Rome (popular routes for an Italian tour!), or really anywhere in Italy, you can take the high speed train.

We rode Italo from Rome. The trains look new and offer a comfortable and convenient ride from Rome to Florence in under 2 hours. We paid a little extra to ride in business for a few extra perks. The seats were more spacious than economy and we received our choice from a nice selection of snacks and drinks- similar to on a plane. Business didn't have the entertainment screens that first class boasts, but the views of the Italian countryside more than made up for this!

Maddie qualified as a "lap-child" (again, super similar to an airplane experience!) and didn't need a ticket to ride. The seats in business were so spacious and comfortable that we really didn't feel the need for a separate seat for Maddie.

One thing to note- while the train staff assured us that the AC was on, it was still very warm on the train. Honestly, we think that the US has just spoiled us with the blasting cold AC we're used to. We've come to expect that the transportation in other countries will be hotter than in the States!

STROLLER RENTAL

Mads doesn't look thrilled in this picture (jet-lag, anyone?) but we promise she loved this stroller!

A quick word for Babonbo: we LOVE this company!!! If you're looking for a stroller rental in Florence, this is where it's at!

Babonbo is a baby gear rental service that connects local parents to travelers who need baby gear. It boasts an impressive selection of gear, like cribs, car seats, and even toys!

We selected a stroller that had sturdy, thick tires that we were sure could handle the cobblestone. When we picked it up, less than a 10 minute walk from our Airbnb, we were impressed with how clean and new it looked!

It's so convenient and we've always been pleased with the quality of the strollers and carseats we've rented. If you're taking your toddler to Europe, check out Babonbo!

As for getting around Florence, the streets of Centro Storico are so easy to walk. The city's limited-traffic zones keep traffic to a minimum (though make driving in Florence quite the adventure...) so it's super easy to walk to all the major sights whether your toddler wants to cruise in the stroller or toddle beside you!

SIGHTS

That VIEW!!!

After visiting Rome, Florence's slower, more artsy vibe was like a breath of fresh air! Below, I’ll tell you about the major sights through our toddler’s eyes, as well as if each sight is stroller friendly. I've also linked the official website for each sight to make booking tickets easier!

Disclaimer: We opted out of any tours so that we could see each sight at Maddie’s pace and not be tied to a group if she (or we!) found something extra interesting, or if we needed to make a quick exit for a tired or hungry child. Depending on your child’s temperament, a tour may be the best way for you to enjoy the sights, but we felt most relaxed having the freedom to stop and go as needed.

NOTE: Our # 1 tip is to read up on all the history before you go! It makes your experience so much more rich and we truly feel like we missed out on some of it on the sights we didn't take the time to learn as much about.

THE DUOMO DI FIRENZE

When we rounded the corner and saw the grandeur of the Basilica da Santa Maria towering over us, I audibly gasped. I can confidently say that it was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. With construction beginning in 1296, this gorgeous historic cathedral has earned its fame. The piazza surrounding the church is full of charming shops, cafés, and gelaterias, and is very toddler friendly! We found many lovely street performers there that our toddler loved dancing to!

One MAJOR thing to note is that no strollers or backpacks are allowed inside of the church or the Dome climb. The staff has you drop your belongings at some lockers around the square.

I've seen it questioned online whether the climb to Bruneschelli's Dome is worth it for parents of young children. You know your own child's temperament, but all I can tell you is that our Maddie LOVED it! Coming in at a whopping 463 steps, the climb to the dome sounded intimidating, but Maddie's little legs climbed well over 100 of the steps herself! When we reached the top, Maddie ran for the railing and stared straight down the 10 story drop (see first photo in this post!)- travel has definitely encouraged her boldness and bravery to try new things!

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO

Piazzale Michelangelo was another case of "worth the climb!" To get to this scenic overlook, you'll need to cross the river. We actually quite enjoyed this walk, as it took us through a less touristy part of Florence and gave us a chance to see what's on the other side of the river! From our Airbnb (near Uffizi Gallery), it was a little under a mile and took about 30 minutes with the stroller.

Stroller-wise, this sight can be an interesting challenge :) There are quite a bit of stairs, some steep. We resorted to collapsing the stroller and carrying Maddie most of the way up. I've seen it estimated online that a climb up to the top of the hill should take about 10-15 minutes with no stops, but we toddler parents know to add a few extra minutes for our crew!

Once you make it to the top... WOW! SO worth it!!!! The view you get of the whole of Florence is unmatched! We enjoyed picking out the major sights in the skyline and snapped some incredible pictures! In the middle of the piazzale, there's a life-size replica of Michelangelo's David, hence the name! Also to note, there's a cute cafe a level down from the piazzale and some small street vendors at the top if the walk makes your toddler (or you!) feel a little hangry.

BASILICA OF SANTA CROCE

When I think "toddler", I don't necessarily think "quiet church filled with priceless art", but The Basilica of Santa Croce was one of my favorite places in Florence!

Strollers are allowed, but our toddler wanted to roam. We let her loose in the giant cathedral interior while keeping a close eye as there are famous tombs lining the wall housing the likes of Galileo, Bruni, and Michelangelo himself! The porticos in the church are filled with incredible art dedicated by some of the most famous families from Florence's history.

We REALLY loved the outdoor corridors and grounds, where Elisha took Maddie to run while I admired more art inside.

The church is bigger on the inside than you'd expect from the outside. Though it is considered a "minor" basilica, we would HIGHLY recommend making some room in your itinerary to take your toddler here!

GIOTTO'S CAMPANILLE

Located right beside the Duomo, Giotto's Campanille (or, bell tower) stands tall and proud! If you make the 414 step climb to the top, it gives a unique view of the famous dome as well as another view of beautiful Florence!

Obviously, this one is a no-go with a stroller because it's all stairs. Something to note with this is that the staircase is often narrow and can be difficult to navigate, especially when there are people going up and down the stairs at the same time. Our toddler is pretty manageable without a carrier and we had room in our schedule to linger when she needed time to, but if your toddler is an escape artist or you have a time constraint, I'd recommend bringing your favorite toddler carrier.

ACCADEMIA GALLERY

The Academy Gallery is a sight high on many Florence "must-see" lists, and for good reason! This is where Michelangelo's famous David lives! This gallery has a simple layout and is easily navigable with a stroller.

The David was a wonder to marvel at, but we loved this gallery for much more than its star attraction! We are huge music lovers, and the instrument wing was incredible! Maddie really enjoyed checking out the ancient "guitars", as she called every stringed instrument there! Leading to the David, there's also breathtaking paintings and more of Michelangelo's statues.

Maddie LOVED the David! As we approached, she excitedly looked up and shouted "MAN!" Yes, Maddie, that is a REALLY big man! Ha! Elisha and I were in awe at the sheer size of it and the lifelike details. It almost seemed like the giant stone man was alive! This gallery deserved two pictures spots! :)

THE PONTE VECCHIO

Did you know that Ponte Vecchio translates to "Old Bridge"? Strolling across this bridge (literally- very stroller friendly!), you'll feel like you've been transported to medieval times!

The bridge was completed in 1345 and still features some of the historic stone and wood work. Here you'll find jewelry shops working out of the shops where once, butcher shops made such a stink that in 1593, Grand Duke Ferdinando Medici (of the Florence famous Medici family!) decided they could no longer sell on the bridge!

Beware of the infamous scammers that line the walkway with their "paintings" (cheap printouts) in hopes that you'll step on them and have to pay!

PRO TIP: Head over to Ponte alle Gratzie for a view of the bridge! We came during sunset and really think that this is the best way to experience the bridge!

MERCATO CENTRALE

Situated in the San Lorenzo neighborhood, Mercato Centrale has all the food you could ever want! On the first level, local vendors sell fresh produce, breads, cheeses, meats, wines and olive oils, sweets, pasta, and more!

Upstairs is a food hall with everything from traditional Italian bakeries to Smash Burger to Asian cuisine to swanky bars. We came here once for lunch and once for breakfast and loved it both times! The ambiance of culinary innovation and culture is unmatched!

This venue is very stroller friendly with elevators located in two corners of the

building (though we couldn't find them and ended up carrying a sleeping Maddie up the two flights of stairs in her stroller). Be prepared to jockey for a seat upstairs if you're not taking your food to go.

UFFIZI GALLERY

The Uffizi Gallery is amazing, but can be a little overwhelming. Ever heard of Stehndal Syndrome? It's named after a 19th century French author who grew depressed and dizzy in Florence after viewing too much art!

We decided that it would be best if Elisha stayed at the Airbnb with Maddie while my mom and I went to the Uffizi, and I'm glad we did! We enjoyed a slow morning of perusing art while Elisha and Maddie recharged from our art-heavy days before!

We were excited to see the works of Leonardo, Raffaello, Carravagio, and Michelangelo. It did not disappoint! The gallery is so huge, however, that by the end of the top floor we were ready to go back to the AirBNB.

We did see one family there with a toddler around Maddie's size, so it's definitely possible to bring your kiddo! If you are determined, then more power to you! But based on the stress on their faces, we would not recommend.

There are a few amazing sights like the Palazzo Pitti and the Palazzo Vecchio that we chose to pass on for this trip because we only had a short time and our girl was getting a little "art-ed" out. We plan on returning to see the rest of beautiful Florence, but we were satisfied focusing on the churches and museums this time around.

ACCOMMODATION

We stayed at the VISCONDI DI MODRONE PALACE HEART OF FLORENCE Airbnb. With a shining 4.98 star rating, this stay was everything we needed and more! The apartment is owned by a 95 year old Florence local whose family has lived in the space since the 1800's! He was actually born in the master bedroom!

Upon arrival, Laura, the owner's daughter greeted us with a basket of snacks and told us about the building's history. It features wood-beam ceilings original to the 14th century palace that the apartments were renovated out of. The rooms are spacious and comfortable. We were grateful for the washer/dryer and the crib and highchair provided.

The two bedrooms, two bathrooms, comfortable living room, and well appointed kitchen were more than enough for our family.

We also LOVED the location of this stay! Less than a 5 minute walk to the Uffizi gallery and a short walk to the Arno for a view of the Ponte Vecchio, we felt like we were in the heart of the city. Because it's tucked into a quiet street, we didn't experience any bothersome street-noise or clogged streets that usually accompanies a central location.

We really enjoyed this bakery on the corner and were so excited to be just down the street for the famous Al Antico Viniao sandwich shop.

Here’s how far the stay is from all of the major sights:

Santa Croce - 5 min walk
Uffizi Gallery - 6 min walk
Ponte Vecchio - 9 min walk
Accademia Gallery - 15 min walk
Mercato Centrale- 16 min walk
Duomo & Campanile - 17 min walk
Piazzale Michelangelo - 25 min walk (longer than it says online because toddler!)

FOOD

Peep Elisha's loving gaze at the sandwich! Pizza at Cucina Torcicoda

Toddler parents everywhere know that eating at a sit-down restaurant with a toddler can sometimes be a less than relaxing experience. This may explain why you won't find Bisteca Florentina, a giant steak unique to the region, on our Florence menu. Because of this, we enjoyed a great deal of street food in Florence!

The famous sandwich shop Al Antico Vinaio was a 5 minute walk from our AirBNB, so our first night in Florence we made the short trek to see what all the hype was about. This lively little shop was bustling with tourists and locals alike. Thankfully, the line moved quickly as the staff worked to prepare the giant sandwiches. Piled high with mortadella, cheese, and an addictive pistachio cream, these sandwiches live in our dreams now! Our one Florence regret is that we didn't have the time to go here a second time! (more reason for another trip ;) )

Our one sit-down meal in Florence was at Cucina Torcicoda, a combo pizzeria and fine dining restaurant. We had a great experience in the pizzeria side. The fine-dining side looks lovely, but didn't strike us as "fun" for our toddler. A few things we loved about this restaurant: It has a clear view of the Santa Croce from the outdoor seating, the staff was attentive and brought a box full of coloring supplies for Maddie, and the pizza is absolutely incredible. Elisha and I agree that this place had some of the best pizza we have ever eaten!

We mentioned in our Rome post how impressed we were with the dairy-free gelato options for Maddie, who has a dairy sensitivity. Florence boasted the same selection, but one spot took the cake (or cone, if you will!). Our favorite spot in Florence, Eduardo, was organically certified! We're pretty conscious of the ingredients that we consume, especially with Maddie's sensitivities, so we were delighted to find organic gelato right beside the Duomo! We found ourselves back here several times, sometimes multiple times a day! Hey, what happens in Italy stays in Italy!

If you missed it in the "sights" section, don't forget to head over to Mercato Centrale, which is a foodie's DREAM!

DON'T FORGET!!!

We've compiled some AWESOME and comprehensive resources for you to use before you go! Here are the links to our guides for airports with a toddler and the things we love about Italy with a toddler.

We hope you enjoy your trip to Rome with your toddler! And as always,

Book the flight, bring the littles,

Kendall